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 (nobody)...and 91 guests Last 5 registered Oplandisks nothingstar N_loop yipe foxtrotromeo Browse members... |
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They haven't discontinued the ProDs - the official word is that they're just currently in the same state as the 06 models- no plans to make updated ones (currently), but they will continue to produce the existing demand whilst there is a demand for them. I can see the ProDs disappearing though- the greedy (and that's what a 25% price hike in an industry that tends towards lower prices over time is) £100 price hike has meant people are paying that little bit more and opting for Raines. The should have kept the prie as it was an had it as a sort of "budget premium" scratch mixer. So, which 2 models are you comparing? |
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well.. right now, I'm comparing 05ProD and ProIII... I'd also like to check some Ranes but I can't find any norwegian web-shops that have them... would you say that a Rane mixer at approx. £300 is better than the PMC05 ProIII or ProD? |
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I'm not aware of any Rane scratch mixer in the £300 region, cheapest I've seen is the TTM56's little brother- the TT54i and that is at least £450. |
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ok. I think I'll go for either of the vestax' then. but I haven't decided if it is worth it, buying the samurai-version from america, or the ProIII from here... |
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Personally I'd go for the ProD, but before you decide ask yourself these questions: Will you consider upgrading to a different mixer in the next 18 months? How important is an FX send loop to you? Are you likely to ever chain mixers (either DJing as part of a team or simply to add a third channel by using another 2 channel mixer)? The crossfader on the ProD will last you for years, literally. You'll probably need to replace the one on the 05III within a year depending on how much you use it (although I have red they're better than the 05proII faders for durability). You mentioned earlier you'd want to use the mixer with keyboards etc. if that's still a priority maybe an FX send loop is very important to you (rather than attaching FX to the master out). If you are unlikely to form a scratch crew or ever move onto three decks (I've had a go using a borrowed deck, but it's not worth it IMO- nothing you can't achieve with a cheap sampler, which'd cost under the £300+ for another deck) then the session mix is not really a factor. |
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I'm not likely to form/join a scratch crew or chain mixers. An fx-send loop is not all that important for the mixer. If I need effects, I'll either send it through something on the main out or do the effects later (software). I can also use the (regular) mixer we have in "the home studio" at my friends place.. that has an fx-send loop. For using the mixer with a keyboard or pc.. well.. the keyboard has built-in effects, and the pc.. well.. I'll have to record on it when doing stuff, so I won't use it for nothing fancy (beatmix-practice with only one deck and an mp3-player was what I was thinking with that) I don't think I'm going to upgrade mixer AT LEAST until I have the other deck.. don't know how long that'll take me... crossfaders.. well.. parts are easy to get, so that doesn't worry me.. I'll have to change things eventually anyway... |
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The thing is scratch mixer faders are v. expensive- £70+ some of them, so it's not like it's a slight inconveniance when it goes- it's a substantial chunk of the cost of the mixer. Based on your answers, I'd advise you to go for the ProD, so long as it's not much more expensive. If you're still unsure, you might want to go and ask any Qs specific to the 05III you have. |
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ok. I'll go for the ProD, then. Hope they still have them in stock when I get my paycheque! and.. about the faders being expensive.. so are the styli for the ortofons... hehe... |
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Nah, fuck it. I can't spend that much money when I'm not sure if I'll get it (even though the webpage seems right, and all, what little contact I've had with the shop gives me a "there is something wrong here" feeling.. it seems like they just want me to send money as fast as possible.. like they're pushing me to buy the mixer RIGHT NOW!). I'll have to think about it until my next payday when I can afford buying either one... |
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On second thought.. the fx-send-loop COULD be nice.. I could patch the V-Amp into it and make lots of cool noises! (this thread is nice! hahaha!) |
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Which store are you thinking of buying it from? |
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. The thing is that the response I got from them wasn't really one that made me trust them.. and the package will have to travel halfway across the globe to get to me (at an extra expense of $125 of shipping (which possibly is witouth counting postage), $35 of bank-thingies, $499 for the mixer itself, and 25% of the price of the mixer itself in customs-fees + 1-200 norwegian kroner for paperwork in customs ++, which amounts to it being 1-2000 nok more expensive than the ProIII, and only 2-3000 cheaper than buying the ProD from here, where I know I'll get it... |
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oh, yeah.. new question. when the specs for a mixer says that it only has two channels (phono/line in), and it has those switches, I can, If I want to, plug a line-thingie into it, and at the same time have the deck plugged into the same channel, and switch between the two (if necessary) when I need to, right? |
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Yes, although the cut is sharp and you can't change it, so it's not really very good for mixing between two channel (you can for example synch a drum machine on the channel 1 line in to the turntable on phono line 1 and cut between the two every bar using the switch, but it doesn't sound very good). It's really made for having CD players as well as vinyl decks in the same mixer. Normally, you'd need 2 cd decks and say vinyl deck 1 is playing, any CD you wanted to mix in would be best put in CD deck 2, or if you're playing cd deck 1, mix into vinyl deck 1. |
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yeah, I'm not planning on using it live, I'm just planning on using it halfway to put the synth through it (so that I don't have to send the signal through the noisy computer) and then into the recording thingie I'm buying later (I'm getting sick and tired of working on my computer (which is a P2 266mhz (I know.. It's old)), so I'm buying a portastudio later... |
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this doesnt have anything to do with this thread, but i have a problem with my mixer: when i move my crossfader too far to the left or right(example: when i do this agressive) there is some kind of disorder which makes my right or left speaker plays the music of the channel which originally has to be muted, at half sound. is there a problem with my mixer or crossfader, or maybe something else? i hope you understand my problem, because this is very anoying |
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It's called "bleeding" and sadly happens to almost all contact faders over time... If you can, replace the crossfader/upfaders affected. If it's a fader pot (dial/knob as opposed to a slider), there's not much you can do normally. What mixer is it? |
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That shouldn't be a problem, I've got my drum machine wired up that way and it works fine. |
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thanks for the advice, its a gemini pmx500, it sucks that it happens so soon because i only have it for a few months, i can slide my fader out and buy a new one, what kind of fader do you recommend me? now were talking about the subject: do you use something to do effects? is the gemini fx7000 any good? which turnable can you recommend me? not too expensive. is it a good idea to buy it already used? do you record your mixes? what do you use for this, because its impossible to put my pc next to my mixer, im thinking about buying a iriver mp3player but these things are very expensive |
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its a gemini pmx500, it sucks that it happens so soon because i only have it for a few months, i can slide my fader out and buy a new one, what kind of fader do you recommend me? Unfortunately Gemini faders do wear out pretty quickly :( There are probably only 1/2 models of crossfader that will go in it- you can't just buy any old one. You need to check the manual/gemini site. do you use something to do effects? Yep- Kaoss pad and I've got frequency kills that can be used for a primitive sort of filtering on my house mixer (Vestax PMC270) is the gemini fx7000 any good? Never used one sorry... Kaoss pads and The Pioneer FX units are both good DJ oriented FX units. Quite expensive though. which turnable can you recommend me? Vestax PDX2000s, if you're rough with your gear, Tech 12xxs not too expensive. Hmm, that may be a problem... Stanton's belt drives are quite good budget 'tables. is it a good idea to buy it already used? If you're buying something reliable/solid like Technics, I'd defo. go second hand. If you're going to get cheap belt driven ones 2nd hand, be aware that the belts may be worn (or wearing) out and hence the pitch waver/loss of torque will be greater than normal. you record your mixes? what do you use for this, because its impossible to put my pc next to my mixer, im thinking about buying a iriver mp3player but these things are very expensive Very rarely, although I have my setup in such a way that I can. One master out from the mixer goes to the PC (and another amp) and the other to my cheapo mono amp I use for parties. That way I can use the decks w/o the PC being on, but also record to PC when I want. If you're not fussed about the format, you could pick up a recordable tape deck for £10 from a pawn shop and just plug the second master out into the line in of that. Lo-tech, but it'd work. |
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Just got 2 copies of "DJ Craze - Bully Breaks" in the mail. Still need to wear them in (bit skippy at the moment), but early indications suggest they'll be awesome for juggling :D |
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nice! since I can't do any scratch fun yet, I'm only waiting for a copy of Pharoahe Monch - Internal affairs, and meanwhile I'm beatmixing Talib Kweli - Get By onto various songs (it's not really that good to beatmix because of the singing, which is tuned...) |
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I'm off to Bath for a few days though (I'll take the records with me) and I'll have to use inferior gear there :) You know there are scratches (aside from "baby") you can do w/o a mixer, right? I used to focus on them a lot before I had a scratch mixer- I still think my tear and non fader beat tripling (play beat, pull back, play, all with channel faded in) are some of my stronger scratches. |
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yeah, I've experimented with that.. there is this one bar at the beginning of that Method Man song (can't remember the name..) that I can almost scratch while staying in the right tempo, and thus creating a neat forwards-backwards-forwards drum-loop. I'll record when I get it COMPLETELY right (and have something to record on.. I fucking hate my computer (except for playing old games! for that, it rocks!!!), and do a track over it... but what is tear? |
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A tear (as in rip- not to cry) works best on a constant sound like an "ahhh" or "fresh". Basically (keeping the fader on the whole time) play it forwards once, then pull back pausing ever so briefly on the way back (half way is probably best to begin with, but once you get to grips with that try pausing at 1/3rd back then pull back the remaining 2/3rds) before resuming pulling it back all the way. Once you've gotten to grips with it, there are lots of variants- changing the speed of the pull back after/before the pause (I like doing a quick 1/3 pull back, pause, then pull back the last part at normal speed). You can think of the pauses as fader clicks (silences), but of course they're subtley different (the record position pauses, whereas if you just muted it with the fader on a complete back pull, part would be missed out). Other ways (which of course can be mixed matched almost endlessly) to do it include: Adding extra pauses, (depends on sound length/your skill, but generally) up to 3 so there are 4 sections of sound. Changing of speed between pauses. Doing reverse tears (break up the forwards part, but pull the back part without pause). NB this is a bit harder than a normal one and as with lots of "shove" (as opposed to pull) techniques, lots of people find it skips more. Making it symmetrical- same number/place of pauses in both directions, eg: fr-e-sh, hs-e-rf (where '-' is a pause) Alternate mirroring (I can't do this yet- still trying to master it): use different placement of forwards backwards pauses/speeds, then once you've done it once, repeat it, but with the forwards backwards parts reversed. E.g. fres-h,hs-e-r-f then, play it again but f-r-e-sh, h-sref. You still got a link to "The Ever" I gave you a while back? IT should detail the basics of tears/give audio samples so you can see you're doing it right there... |
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yeah, I got the link, and I think I may have done what you are describing (at least halfway) to some bottle-playing or whistle-sounds or something from the old BBC-sounds record I mentioned earlier... I make it go "pfuuuu-u-u-u-u-u-uiiii-iuuu-u-u-u-u-u-uuuufpfpfp- (over to baby-scratching the start of the sound)-fppf-fppf-fppf-fppf- (back to tear) pfuuuu-u-u-u-u-uuii" and so-forth. |
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actually, now that I think about it, I don't think it's a whistle, I think it's one of those small flutes that you can hear Aphex play on Logon Rock Witch.. the ones that have no holes you cover with your fingers, but rather a stick you push and pull to create tones... |
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Ah, a slide whistle! Whilst we're on the subject of scratching, put your 'tables battle style (or at least 'L' style), be it left, right or center battle style. People who scratch who have them "normal" are mentally defective ;-) |
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you mean I should put them up so that the pitch is on the back and the tonearm comes from the back left corner? yeah, I'm going to, but I'll need a larger table to put them on (the one I have now is made up of two old speakers and a plate...(don't worry: the speakers aren't connected to anything 'cause that would just fuck shit up(vibrations and electro-magnetic stuff))) |
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question: what the FUCK is that "pivoting turntable" from vestax about? hahahahha! that's some crazy shit! |
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That's right. Generally battle style takes up less space than normal- especially if you don't have a club style 19" mixer. Sure the area used is the same, but few people have extremley long thin tables, unless they're on a big shelf/on top of a record shelf (as someone I know has them). Re: the pivoting table. I've not used one, seems a bit gimmicky and a costly one at that. It's marketed towards people with small amounts of table space (Vestax = Japanese = Market things to suit the needs of people in small apartments). I can see it being of some use in small bars/nightclubs where space really is at a premium, but I'm sceptical how good the tracking could be/how low the record wear could be compared to a normal table. That said, vestax are shit hot at tracking- Even a normal PDX2000 can be angled quite sharply before it skips and the QFO allegedly has a belt attachment so you can use it against your leg standing up! |
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aaaah! FINALLY got the mixer! Vestax decided they'd change importer to norway, so the mixer hadn't been in the country (for sale, anyway) since july... So, now, I'm the owner of a Vestax PMC05 ProIII, and it's fucking lovely! Borrowed a friends v-amp to connect to the effect-loop, and I've been scratching distorted scratches with wah-wah, and it sounds amazing! However, I'm going to need more wires and a decent set of headphones.. wellwel.. nevermind. |
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wow, this thread has been busy. Just a couple of things: 1) Earlier, you mentioned using the channel switches (phone/line) to cut. This has lots of pops and clicks. If, however you are familiar with a soldering iron, and simple electronics, then you can use a tie-down resistor on the switch to significantly reduce (i.e. eliminate) popping. ---in1------0 --\ ---in2------0 0.-----out---> | []resistor |__________ground ok, circuit reads as the two inputs into a toggle switch. use a large value resistor, say 100k and tie it down to ground, i.e. zero volts. you could try 10k if you want, either should be ok. hope that makes some kind of sense. 2)Second thing, yes, vestax "analogue" faders such as my one in the 06 are expensive to replace, roughly 60 or 70 quid, however, they are long life. mine initially had a problem after 6 months where when at one extremity, if slight twisting force was applied, the channel would cut in!!! annoying, so, open the thing up, clean up the resistive tracks with meths+cotton buds(or use isopropyl alchohol(better)) then get your needle nose pliers or AA tweezers or something and carefully bend the 4(i think) legs so they make better contact. Be EXTREMELY careful. mine look shoddy, but are actually well done, with minimal pressure on the track. its been a number of years and the fader is fine. well, i can't remember point 3, but remember, I am a fairly practice person, but if you are not, then don't complain if you destroy your gear and say, but dave_g said it would be ok! |
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ok, the diagram is kinda wrong, the dot after the switch is where the resistor connects, not that anyone cares probably, but hey! |
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oh.. no I didn't mean using the channel switches to CUT.. I just wanted to know if I could have, like, a synth and a deck on pgm1, and then maybe the computer on pgm2, and then if I wanted to play synth to a song, I'd just use the line, and if I wanted to scratch I'd use the deck, but I didn't mean I wanted to switch it "live".. I just wanted to not have to switch cables all the time (disconnecting the deck to put in the synth and so-on...). And I now know that it works perfectly fine, so... but thanks anyway.. I'll look into that fader-issue, but I don't think I'll do anything like that (ok.. I'll probably clean it from time to time, but no bending and stuff).. I'm too afraid I'll break it... |
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